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Sample Our Newsletter
"How to Halter a Horse," from my FREE monthly newsletter
From the Basic Horse Training Series:
"Is he head shy? Does he have a cow when you touch his ears or chin or block his vision? Then put the halter down and use your hands to desensitize him to your touch. (Use a dressage whip at first if you feel he might throw his head about and strike you. This would be a silly way to lose your front teeth. Stand at the point of his shoulder if you feel there's any chance he might try to kick or walk into you.) Begin by finding the spots where he doesn't like to be touched and do what any bratty older sister would do: Keep touching him there. If you can't touch his ears, rub the area you can rub, edging ever closer to the ears as the horse grows bored, being careful to only remove our rubs when the horse pauses. There's only one way to screw this up and that is for you to pause when he moves away. If he moves, you move with him. Remember, you "sensitize" the horse (that is, make him more likely to move) when you remove your pressure as he moves; you "desensitize" the horse (dull him to something) when you remove your pressure when he stops doing something.
If you're saying, "Yeah, but he moves his ears the second I touch them," that's fine. If you can bring your hand up and over his ears even for a tenth of a second, you would have accomplished your immediate objective of touching his ears. (Our long term goal is haltering the horse and we never start with our goal, right?) All you need to do is repeat this over and over and over, slowing your hand above his ears as he begins to grow bored. The horse has either grown sensitive to having his ears touched because people backed off as he pitched his head ("sensitizing him") – or no one's ever worked with him period (as in the case of a youngster). Either way, our response is the same."
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From John Lyons Trainer Keith Hosman |
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Round Pen First Steps
A Downloadable Book
A sample from Day 1:
"If it's important to always back off your pressure as soon as possible, it's doubly important that you begin each request by following a series of pre-cue, cue and finally (when called for) motivation. Pre-cues let the horse know "something's coming that requires action on his part." Cues act as a signal of what, specifically, you'd like to see happen. Motivation (applying pressure to his mouth by picking up the rein, snapping the lunge whip, etc.) back up your cued requests. Practice enough and your horse will begin to read small, unconscious signals from you and start reacting to your pre-cue. In the round pen, your body position will act as a pre-cue (picking up your lunge whip or raising your arm), kissing and changing your stance offer a cue ("move to the right," for instance) and a flick of the lunge whip applies motivation. If you're riding and you'd like the horse to trot off, you might lift your reins (pre-cue to move), kiss and drop your legs against the horse (cue to move), bring your legs away as if to kick (a secondary cue of sorts: "Hey, you missed that cue to move"), then finally you'd kick (motivation: "I'll thump if you don't move when first asked"). Constantly flicking your whip, for instance, teaches your horse that he can live through it (or it doesn't hurt like he first thought) and will have the unwanted effect of desensitizing the horse to your requests. Begin with your motivator (throwing your lariat whilst in the round pen, kicking if you're riding, etc.) and your horse would quickly decide "He throws the lariat if I stand here. He throws the lariat if I run. I might as well stand here.""
- Print out from home
- 5 Days, 5 chapters
- Learn at your own pace
Just $5.99
For more info:
this course | all courses
Available Downloads:
"Stop Bucking"
"Rein/Speed" (for Nervous Horse Owners)
"Round Pen First Steps"
"Trailer Training" |
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How to Bridle a Horse English Style (series)
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How to Bridle a Horse | English
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How to Bridle a Horse English Style (series): Free Video Clips for Riders, Trainers & Owners
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