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"Could you tell me more about the reins and bit you recommend?"
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Dear Keith...
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Could you tell me more about the reins and bit you recommend? I saw on your site, the gold reins with the copper snaffle bit.
Would the soft reins allow me more sensitivity in feeling when my horse gives in ? I have a 3 year old mare, and have a long way to go in her training. She tends to spook and she is just now getting used to walking in water and mud. But totally yet.
She tends to pull her head to get her way. Would appreciate any advice you have to offer. Am interested in the reins and bit.
Thanks, Bob |
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Reply
Here's the best way I can put it:
I have learned the way for me to make the most money is to let the reins and bit do their own talking. So, I tell folks "You don't need to buy any special equipment for our clinics. You'll need to use a snaffle bit and I would suggest our "continuous loop" reins - but you can borrow them from us if you don't have them already." (See, then they show up and don't buy them from somebody else in the meantime.) Then, whey they begin using the pair they've borrowed from me, nearly 100% (maybe it is 100%) buy them before the day's out - because it makes training so much easier. I've also learned that when somebody gives me a hard time ("My horse will neeeeeevvvvvvvverrrrrrrrr go in a snaffle bit with those reins"), I let them ride in whatever makes them happy. Without fail, two hours later (I've had this happen a few times; human nature doesn't change) they'll turn to me and say "How come my horse isn't going like her horse? I want those results." And I'll say "The bit you want to use won't allow the horse the flexibility he needs - and the reins you use don't allow you to make changes fast. Swap them out and try ours." Then at lunch time, I'm selling them the reins and bit.
The full cheek bit allows you to skip the addition of a curb strap, so it save you a couple of bucks. (It keeps the hors from opening his mouth, allowing the bit to get pulled through from one side to the other.) The reins allow you to concentrate on training. That knot you may have in the middle of your two separated reins, for instance, will hit your hand each time as you try to pull it through. Simply put, to be the most efficient, you need reins that will slip through your hands, allowing you to easily keep even pressure. As opposed to those you might have seen used by a barrel racer, ours our longer; they're made for day-to-day training.
The black ones are a bit more course than the gold ones. They're also a tad more narrow. Bony guys like me like the larger gold ones. "Shorter-fingered" folks like the black ones. Some say the copper keeps the horse salivating and therefore more "sensitive." Others say "whatever to that." It's your call.
If you're asking me about using reins and bits (and the proper use thereof) you should check out some of the articles on our site like:
The Snaffle Bit vs the Shank Bit: http://www.horsemanship101.com/John-Lyons-Training-Newsletter/Issues/Snaffle-Bits-vs-Shank-Bits.html
Teach Yourself What a Give Feels Like: http://www.horsemanship101.com/John-Lyons-Training-Newsletter/Issues/Foul-Weather-Riding-Exercise.html
You should also sign up for our (no-cost-to-you) online study course, "Speed Control," as Day Two deals with similar issues: http://www.horsemanship101.com/Courses/index.html
Hope this helps. Write back with any other questions.
Regards
Keith Hosman
horsemanship101.com
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Suggested Article: "Horses That Pull On the Bit and Head Tossers"
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Suggested Article: "Ready for Your Next Spook?"
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We clinicians teach "handling of the reins" in a particular order and emphasize certain aspects because we repeatedly see a pattern of "universal truths" from one rider to the next. We see this and we see opportunities to make marked improvements...
from our Natural Horse Training series > read more |
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